Single-Pitch Guide (SPG) Assessment

Assuming the candidate already holds a current TCIA TRG qualification, assessment requires a further full day of assessment across two 3-4 hour sessions. Both sessions require the candicate to safely and efficiently lead two clients (one client will be the assessor) on a single pitch climb using artificial/trad gear (nuts, cams etc). The first session will focus on performing a number of rescues during the single pitch climb. The second session will focus on the delivery of a guided experience where the clients will be taken on numerous single pitch climbs to match their ability/challenge requirements.

Candidates are expected to:

  • Keep themselves and their clients safe at all times
  • Demonstrate a well engrained safety check and briefing procedures for single-pitch guiding
  • Demonstrate proficient use of artificial gear and assisted belay devices/belay plates in guide mode (e.g. ATC guide; Petzl Gri Gri).
  • Offer a quality experience to their clients
  • Be proficient at responding to any emergency situation that may arise
  • Be competent at guiding clients on single-pitch trad route (with easy access to the top and bottom of the climb) using artificial protection such as wires and cams

Cost – see here.

To apply for assessment

Prerequisites: To sit SPG assessment candidate must be deemed a competent TCIA Top Rope Guide and have completed a logbook of personal climbing (minimum 50 single pitch routes led in the last 3 years, 25 must be traditionally protected)

Fill in an expression of interest 

A TCIA TRG qualification or equivalent is required as a prerequisite prior to SPG assessment. Please discuss with the Secretary prior to booking.

Candidates are required to organise a client who will be used for assessment.

Course Dates

Consult the Training Calendar for the next SPG Assessment dates, they are in general the set seasonal training and assessment weekends. Extra dates will be organised as required.

Assesment expectation

The candidate is expected to maintain the safety of self and the group throughout both assessments. Significant climbing knowledge and experience is expected. Candidates are expected to climb confidently and efficiently at a minimum grade of 15. 

For SPGs it will be necessary to demonstrate proficient use of artificial gear and assisted belay devices/belay plates in guide mode (e.g. ATC guide; Petzl Gri Gri).

On the first assessment candidates must lead a client and the assessor on a single pitch climb using artificial gear (nuts, cams etc). Rescue scenarios will include an unassisted raise and rescue of stuck clients from ledges using a top down technique. 

On the second assessment the candidate must lead a client and the assessor on two single pitch climbs. The candidate must demonstrate threading a bolted anchor for descent. The candidate must demonstrate lowering a client and an abseil descent with clients

Extra Information

The following information will help candidates get a feel for the nature of the assessment: